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The fishermen's quarter of old Olhão is a warren of narrow twisting
streets where it is easy to become disoriented, a succession of squared-sided
white houses whose windows and façades are edged with bands of
grey and blue. Close by are marred the brightly coloured boats that return
at dawn each day with their catch. The quay provides a setting for the
morning fish market, a fascinating kaleidoscope of sights, sounds and
smells. For those arriving later, a café table by the water's
edge is the perfect spot to just sit and watch the world go by.
Archaeological finds testify to a human presence in the area of Olhão
municipality since the Neolithic period. The most important remains date
from the Chalcolithic period (2000 to 1500 B.C.); the limestone idols
with carved eyes discovered in Moncarapacho are of particular archaeological
interest.
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Traces of the Roman occupation
have survived throughout the municipality, including
remains along the coast associated with fishing and fish
salting. Marim, next to the Ria, was a major "villa" and
its huge burial ground was used again during the period
of Visigothic rule (5th to 8th centuries).
It was the abundance of fish that first attracted fishermen to the spot
where the town of Olhão now stands. Living in humble cabins built
of wood, reeds and straw, they used an age-old technique known as "xávega" which
consisted of casting a sock-shaped net from the beach and then dragging
it back to the shore. The first document to refer to Olhão dates
back to 1378, when the settlement would have been home to a few dozen
inhabitants at most. For centuries, their cabins were the only structures
on the beach. The population gradually increased and in 1679 it was sufficiently
large to justify building the fortress off São Lourenço
(St Lawrence) to defend the town from the pirates.
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The first stone building was the
church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário (Our lady of
the Rosary), work on which began in 1698. It was not
until 1715, however that authorization for the first
masonry dwelling was granted. The 19th century was decisive
for Olhão´s expansion. Firstly because it
was elevated to the status of town, in 1808, as a token
of the gratitude of King João VI (1767-1826) for
the struggle waged against the troops of Napoleon and
for the heroic voyage of the ship Bom Sucesso, which
carried the good news to the Portuguese court in Brazil,
where it had fled following the invasion of Portugal
by the armies of General Soult. Then because of the trade
networks established by Olhão's mariners which
extended as far as the Mediterranean. Lastly because
of the rise of the fish processing industry.
Today Olhão is an active, dynamic town; fishing continues to be
a mainstay of its increasingly diversified economy.
The first stone building to be erected in Olhão, the church was
paid for with contributions from the fishermen. It has a majestic baroque
façade, including a pediment decorated with scrolls and, in the
centre, a shield flanked by angels. A cradle vault spans its spacious
interior. The main chapel is defined by a carved and gilded retable and
triumphal arch (18th century). Its roof is decorated with fresco and
it contains a stature of Nossa Senhora do Rosário. There are side
chapels also with carved retables. Among the statues to be seen the most
interesting are a Crucifixion and a Santo Apostolic. The church's holy
treasure consists of vestments and pieces of jewellery. There is also
a collection of 17th and 18th century statues in a separate storeroom.
To the rear of the church is a chapel of Our Lady of the Afflicted -
Nossa Senhora dos Aflitos, who is especially revered by those, connected
with the sea.
This is the former place of worship of the fishing village (17th Century)
a role reflected in its modest rural architecture. The retables on the
altars are from the 19th century. There is a statue of Santa Luzia (Saint
Luzia) 18th century). At the entrance, a slab covers an old well used
to wash the church.
A fishermen's mutual society founded in the 18th century, this building
has an interesting façade marked by two pyramidal " tesouro" roofs
with a chapel cupola in the middle.
This houses a collection of archaeological and ethnographical exhibits
related to the history of Olhão and the surrounding municipality.
Olhão's fishing port is a must for anyone who likes to watch fishermen
going about their work, to share the excitement of the sardine fleet
returning with its shimmering catch or just to gaze at the colours of
the brightly-painted boats as they sway at their moorings. It is a place
of fascinating shapes and textures, where the earthenware pots called
covos used to catch octopus are stacked alongside nets, buoys, ropes
and other gear, a little world with its own unique ambience.
There are regular boat connection with the islands of Armona and Culatra,
which provide an opportunity to take a trip along the Ria and visit its
attractive beaches. Boats that can be hired from the port offer a similar
service.
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This is a fishing village which still retains some of the old fishermen's
cottages, with their distinctive cubic outlines, flat room terraces and
the balloon-shaped chimneys typical of the this part of the Algarve.
The main church is home to some fine 18th century statues. Its churchyard
offers a fine vantage point form which to look out at the town, the Ria
and the sea.
A look around the bustling fishing port and boatyard is indispensable.
Further on lie saltpans, like vast rectangular mirrors reflecting the
sky, the ruins of the watchtowers at Torre de Bias, Cumeada and Afanxia,
parallel to the Ria and the sea, and the springs of Olheiros, which are
reputed to have medicinal properties.
Green fig trees and vines surround this village, where white walled houses
with decorated chimneys are still to be found in the streets around the
church.
this church's age is apparent from the gothic doorway of the side entrance,
which is in the Renaissance style of the 16th century is very plain.
The interior is spacious and consists of three naves. In the main chapel
is an arch reflecting the transition from he Manueline period to the
Renaissance style, decorated with bunches of grapes and vine leaves and
a ribbed vault with rosettes (16th century). There are a number of 18th
century statues. Nearby stands a bridge of Roman origin that has been
rebuilt on various occasions. In 1808, Napoleonic forces were defeated
here in a skirmish that was the starting point for an uprising throughout
the Algarve.
This is a typical village of the "Barrocal", the intermediate zone of
the Algarve between the coast and the hills of the interior, a place
of orchards and vegetable gardens, fig trees, almond trees and pomegranate
trees. It has several houses typical of the bourgeois architecture of
the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th.
The Romano-gothic elements visible on the cornerstones at the rear of
the church and the ribs on some vaults point to the medieval origins
of this building. Its main doorway is dominated by a group of sculpted
figures representing the Annunciation and by statues of the apostles
St. Peter and St. Paul. Inside, the paintings in the Capela das Almas
or Chapel of Souls, of the Calvary and St. Anthony and the collection
of 17th and 18th century statuary including figures of Our Lady of the
Rosary and the Lord of Patience are particularly deserving of mention.
Mercy Church- Though this church is of relatively little architectural
interest, the retable on the main altar is notable for six paintings
in the mannerist style depicting scenes from the life of Christ.
In the 17th and 18th Centuries this was a place of pilgrimage for Christians
from all over the Algarve and it retains a number of valuable works of
art from that period. It is an 18th Century baroque building of great
simplicity. The interior is decorated with carpet style polychrome tiles
- 18th century. Paintings from the same century depict scenes from the
Nativity and Sacred Heart. The Altar is carved and gilded with 18th century
statues.
There is a fine rail made of lignum vitae (17th Century).
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in addition to a collection
of interesting local archaeological
and ethnographic exhibits, this
museum contains a fine collection
of religious statuary from the
16th to 18th centuries. Its main
attraction is, however, an 18th
century Napolitan nativity scene.
Consisting of 45 pieces in all,
it depicts the adoration of the
Infant Jesus. The figures, which
have terracotta heads and wooden
legs and arms, are dressed in the
sumptuous costumes of the period
threaded with gold and silver.
There are a number of small country chapels known as hermitages in the
vicinity of Moncarapacho, such as Pé da Cruz, São Francisco,
Nossa Senhora do Carmo and others which are typical of the local rural
architecture and in some cases fine viewpoints from which to admire the
surrounding countryside. But of all such places, the hermitage of São
Miguel that stands about 5km away form Moncarapacho on a hill is undoubtedly
the one that offers one of the most beautiful views of the Algarve, a
sweeping panorama that takes in coastline and hills alike. Another natural
viewpoint not far from Moncarapacho is the hill at Cerro da Cabeça.
In addition to its position high above the coast, this hill has the curious
feature of being riddled with carve accessible only to speleologists.
The beauty of Fuseta's beaches can be measured only in miles. There are
facilities for yachts and motorboats. In the summer regular boat connections
run from the Fuseta town.
This small hamlet has a long beach offering peace and quiet in large
doses. A ferry provides regular connections with Olhão. |
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